Make sure your bike is upright with the arrows printed on the box pointed upward.
Cut the binding straps to open the box and lift the bike out by the frame and rear wheel.
Place the bike flat on the ground with the attached front wheel facing upward. Use scissors to cut the zip ties that secure the front wheel to the frame.
Remove the plastic protectors from the axles and set the front wheel aside for the time being.
Then, remove the black protectors from the front and rear dropouts and any other packaging material.
Stand the bike upright with the fork and protector on the ground.
Using your 5mm allen key, loosen the seatpost collar. Then, grease the inside of the seattube of the frame.
Slide the seatpost into the frame ensuring that the minimum insertion marker is below the collar and tighten it back up with your 5mm wrench.
Now, to get the saddle on there!
Lower the bracket beneath the saddle onto the seatpost, then tighten the bolts on both sides with your 13mm socket wrench. Just get it on there as straight and level as possible, fine tuning can be done later.
First, grease up the headtube so the stem won't seize up in there down the road.
Insert the stem into the headtube (make sure the wedge piece is still threaded on the bottom of the bolt) and tighten with your 6mm wrench when it's at a comfortable height.
Center the handlebars and rotate them up to a comfortable riding angle. Then, tighten the 6mm bolt under the clamp to secure them.
Unpack the pedals from the small included cardboard box. The pedals will be marked with either an “R” or an “L”. This will indicate which side of bike the pedal will fit. “R” will be for your driveside and “L” will be the opposite. Look for stickers, or check the ends of the axles for a stamp.
Make sure that before you install your pedals you properly grease the pedal threads and crank arms. This will ensure that you are able to remove your pedal down the line if you decide to upgrade.
Now it's time to bust out that 15mm wrench. We're going to start on the right-hand side of the bike (driveside). Take the pedal labeled “R” and carefully insert the pedal thread into the right crank arm and begin to turn to the right (clockwise). After the pedal is initially seated, take your 15mm wrench (clockwise still) and get that pedal tightened and secured. Make sure not to over tighten as this can cause stripping.
Now for the left pedal. Take the pedal labeled “L” and, again, begin by greasing the threads on the pedal and the crank arm.
Before we go any further it is vitally important to know that the left pedal is reverse threaded. This means that you're going to tighten the pedal by turning it to the left (counter-clockwise). “Lefty Tighty” might seem a little counterintuitive, but it is massively important to remember when installing your pedals.
Now, carefully insert the pedal thread into the left crank arm and begin to turn to the to the left (counter-clockwise). After the pedal is initially seated, take your 15mm wrench and get that pedal tightened and secured. Again, make sure to not over tighten as this can cause stripping.
After you've finished take a step back and marvel at your work. You're one step closer to having a built up bike!
Take your front wheel from earlier and loosen the axle nuts using your fingers or 15mm wrench. Then, align the front wheel and slide the axle into the fork.
Once your wheel is in place use your fingers and 15mm wrench to tighten down those axle nuts.
With many fasteners on the bike you'll want to be careful not to over tighten, but with these you need to make sure they're secure. The hub itself will stop the bolt from turning once it's tightened down.
First, go over every bolt and make sure nothing is loose and we mean every bolt.
Then, give a push back on the pedals to make sure the coaster brake is engaging and stopping the rear wheel!
We didn’t worry about getting that seat exactly where we wanted it when we greased and installed the seatpost. You can now loosen that seatpost clamp and center the saddle on the top tube of the bike and also adjust for height. Just remember not to raise your seatpost past that minimum insertion line.
Adjust saddle angle by loosening the bolts on the bracket holding it to the seatpost. Tilt until you're happy, then tighten 'em back up! (Note: Generally, the level-er, the better.)
Next, you can fine-tune your handlebar height and angle with those bolts on the stem and, once they're set, you're ready to ride!
You're ready to roll! Congratulations!